Manual fastening machines:  It is important to select the correct adapter plate, otherwise you may badly crush the edge of the wood, causing splintering and cracking.

General fastening machines:  It is important to select the correct adapter plate, otherwise you may badly crush the edge of the wood, causing splintering and cracking.  Use a block to make striking the edge plate , easier and reduce risk of damage.

Pneumatic fastening machines:  Safety is a priority when using pneumatic fastening machines.  Ensure all users of the equipment are familiar with it and all safety precautions.

Correct air pressure settings are key to successful installation.  Too low a pressure will result in poorly fastened boards, damage to adjacent boards and difficulty in making tight joints.  Too high a pressure will result in damaged or split tongues, loose and/or squeaky boards.

Pneumatic nailing systems must have an adjustable in-line regulator to permit pressure adjustment for optimal nail setting depth.  Set pressure initially at 75 psi (5 bars), and adjust as required to achieve correct nail set depth.

You will require a 16 or18 gauge pneumatic finishing nailer (similar to the model shown here).  Use 1” length nails when nailing through the tongue and 1-1/2” nails when nailing through the full thickness of the board.

Before you use the mechanical/pneumatic nailing system, it must be calibrated correctly for impact settings and air pressure.  In-stall a “sacrificial” board, carefully inspecting it for correct nail depth, excessive tongue cracking and surface damage.  Adjust and re-test the system until the settings are correct.  Practice on the sacrificial board until you are comfortable with the system.

While hardwood floors look most attractive when they are installed parallel to the longest wall, they need to be installed perpen-dicular (at 90o) to the floor joists (unless you have added an extra subfloor layer to reduce sagging.)

SUBFLOOR:

Your subfloor should be one of the following:  fully adhered vinyl, resilient tile, linoleum, wood or wood structural panels with underlayment.  A minimum ¾” plywood subfloor is required. 

For installation over concrete subfloor:

Install a vapour barrier membrane as per manufacturer’s instructions.  The membrane must be a minimum of 2 mm polyethylene.

Lay a minimum ¾” (19mm) plywood directly over the concrete, leaving a ¼” (6mm) gap around walls, posts and vertical sur-faces.  A 1/8” (3mm) gap should be left between all plywood sheets.

Attach the plywood to the concrete using a pneumatic or ballistic fastening system.  Fasteners (nails) should be spaced no more than 12” (30cm) apart.  DO NOT fasten closer than 2” (5cm) from edges of plywood.  Use 1-1/2” (40mm) fasteners.  DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HAND-NAIL THE PLYWOOD WITH CONCRETE TYPE NAILS, as they will not hold properly.  If you did not install ISO-FLEX membrane, install a 2nd moisture barrier over the top of the subfloor.

For solid wood subfloors, any of the following are acceptable:

a)minimum ¾” (19mm) thick with a maximum  width of 6” (15cm) installed at a 45 degree angle to the floor joists.
b)Group 1 sense softwood (pine, spruce, larch, fir, etc) or No. 2 common grade kiln-dried.  All board ends must
Join and meet a joist.

For existing vinyl, resilient tile, linoleum or cork flooring:  Ensure that the existing subfloor meets the minimum requirements de-tailed in this guide.  DO NOT install flooring over floors which exceed 1” thickness, as the mechanical bond will not be ade-quate.  Certain types of tiles may be too brittle and may shatter or break when fastening the floor.  Test for breakage before be-ginning installation.

For installation over existing hardwood or engineered hardwood floors:

You must ensure the old floor is properly secured down.  Install the new floor perpendicular to the old floor.  If you choose to in-stall the new engineered floor in the same direction, you must install a minimum 3/8” (10mm) approved underlayment over the top of the old floor for stabilization.  If the old floor is glued to concrete, your old floor must be a minimum thickness of ½” (13mm) in order to accommodate the length of the new fasteners.  If the old floors are wider than 6” (150mm), it must be covered with a minimum 3/8” (10mm) approved underlayment for stabilization.

For wood structural panel subfloors & underlayment:

NOTE: Panels with sealants must be installed with sealed-side facing down.  When using panels as a subfloor, leave a 1/8” (3mm) expansion gap between all panel edges.  This will reduce the rise of squeaking.  If spacing is inadequate, re-cut gaps using a circular saw.  DO NOT cut gaps when using tongue & groove panels.  Any one of the follow is acceptable: (Note: Plywood is the subfloor material of choice and should be considered over other options).

Plywood, Oriented Strand Board (OSB), or Wafer Board & Chipboard:  must be minimum CDX grade (exposure 1) and meet US Voluntary Product Standard PS 1 – 95 or Canadian Performance Standard CAN/CSA 0325-0-9.

Subfloor recommendation is ¾”(19mm).

Underlayment recommendation 3/8”(10mm)

Particleboard – must be 40 lb density and stamped as underlayment grade.  DO NOT use for subfloor.  Use as underlayment only. ¾” (19mm) recommended.

Prepare the subfloor as previously described.

Set up your starting line for the first row by measuring the width of the engineered floor plank.  Add ¼” (6mm) to this number and mark the floor at each end of your starting wall, staying 6” (150mm) away from the corners.

Using a chalk-line, carefully snap a line between these two points.  This will ensure your first row is straight, even if your wall isn’t.

Check to make sure there will be approximately ¼” (6mm) between the edge of your first row of planks and the wall.  This space allows for slight expansion of the wood and will be covered by the baseboard/quarter-round.  If there is too much space in any place along the wall, you will have to move your chalk line in.  If there is too little space at any point along the wall, however, you may have to trim some of the boards in the first row.

Select the longest boards for the first row and medium to long lengths for the second row.  This will ensure a straight and true in-stallation.

Place the Tongue side of the board facing the wall.

Align the groove side of the first row along the chalk-line, ensuring there is ¼”(6mm)gap between the board and the wall.  Nail down the first row.  Nails should be set 8 – 12” apart.

Nail the tongue on the first row to the subfloor.  Nails should be spaced every 8” – 12” (20cm).  Nails must be countersunk to al-low a close fit of the next board.

Install the second row to secure into place using the angle method , first on short side , then on long side.  Use a tapping block to “lock” of the boards together.  NEVER STRIKE A BOARD DIRECTLY with a hammer or other object.  If you are close to a wall, use a pry-lever to “lock” the boards together as shown in the figures.

 Remember to stagger the lengths so that ends of boards are no closer than 6” (15cm) apart.  Do not nail closer than 2” (5cm) from the ends of boards to minimize the risk of board splitting.

When cutting the last board of each row, leave a ¼”(6mm) gap between the board and the wall to allow for board expansion.  The cut piece from the end of the row should be used as the first piece of the next row.

Install several rows, securing each in place with a minimum of 2 nails spaced approximately 8” – 12” (20cm) apart.  It is impor-tant that you ensure each board is fully inserted into the end and side of the adjacent boards.

The final row should be rip-cut to fit, leaving 1/4 “ (6mm) gap along the finishing wall for board expansion.  It should face-nailed ½” (12mm) from the edge in the same method as for the first row.

If the final row (when cut) is less than 1” (25mm) in width, it is recommended that it be glued together with the other last row of boards BEFORE IT IS INSTALLED.  After they are glued together, face-nail them into place as if it were a single board.

GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION OF ENGINEERED HARDWOOD FLOOR

Before beginning your glue-down installation, please read these valuable guidelines pertaining to your flooring adhesive and sub-floor.

Adhesives:  Adhesives have limited working time (Urethane – 1 hour; Polmeric resin – 1.5hours; ProConnect – 1hour).  These times also vary greatly depending on air temperature, slab/subfloor temperature, slab porosity and humidity.  Adhesives should not be applied when room and /or floor temperatures are below 65oF (18oC).

Keep containers tightly closed when not in use to prevent thickening.  Adhesives which have thickened will be difficult to spread and may not bond adequately.

To achieve the correct quantity of adhesive per area, the optimal trowel angel is 60o.  You must maintain an angle between 45o & 90o and apply the adhesive at a rate of 1 gallon per 40 – 60 square feet (1 litre per 1 – 1.5 square meters).

Applying pressure on the trowel will not only ensure the adhesive is applied at the correct rate, it will also be applied in “ridges”, wile leaving “clean” lines so you can see the chalk-line.

Refer to the adhesive manufacturer’s label for specific instructions regarding application, ventilation and safety requirements.

Subfloor:  Your subfloor should be one of the following:  Concrete, ceramic or porcelain tile, terrazzo, granite, marble, slate, ma-sonite, acoustic cork, fully adhered vinyl, resilient tile, linoleum, wood or wood structural panels with underlayment.

For glue-down installations over concrete:

Engineered hardwood flooring can be glued to concrete with minimum compressive strength of 3000 psi (20,000kPa).   Do not install over concrete which has been sealed or painted.  Sealers and paints must be removed by grinding or sanding.  Do not in-stall over shiny, heavily troweled or burnished concrete.  Surface must be roughened as necessary by grinding or sanding.  Vac-uum all residues and dust prior to installation.

Moisture:  The slab you are covering should be dry on an annual basis.  A floor which tests “dry” now may be “wet” at other times of the year.  It is not recommended to install hardwood flooring in basements with a history of  flooding, weeping or excep-tionally high moisture content.  All basements should have an operational sump pump.  Note:  The use of moisture barrier is highly recommended over all concrete floors.

Moisture Content (MC): Concrete subfloors must not exceed a moisture content of 5%.  Test in several areas, including near ex-terior walls and walls with plumbing.  The easiest testing method is using an electronic concrete moisture encounter meter (avail-able from most building stores).  Reading should not exceed 4.5 on the higher scale.  Note:  The use of ISO-Flex moisture barrier is highly recommended over all concrete floors.

For commercial installations, one of the following tests is required prior to installation:

a)Calcium Chloride test: Maximum moisture transfer must not exceed 3obs/1000 sq. ft (1.46kg/100 sq.m) in exactly 24 hours.
b)RH levels in concrete using in-situ probes (ASTM F2170-02) should not exceed 75%.

New construction:  A minimum 6mm (10mm recommended) polyethylene sheet should be installed between the newly poured concrete and the ground/crushed stone or soil beneath it.

Moisture barrier membrane:  If moisture is detected or anticipated, the installation of a vapour/moisture barrier system is re-quired.

Acoustic concrete:  This concrete typically contains significant levels of gypsum and/or other materials which inhibit adhesive bonding.  These surfaces must be primed with a primer/surface hardener as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer and tested to ensure a secure bond.  If the surface is powdery or crumbles easily when scratched with a nail, it is not suitable for direct use with adhesives.

Lightweight concrete:  Lightweight concrete must have a density exceeding 100 lbs/cubic foot (1600 kg/cubic M).

This above section is for CONCRETE only.

For installation over existing hardwood or engineered hardwood floors:

You must ensure the old floor is properly secured down.  Install the new floor perpendicular to the old floor.  If you choose to in-stall the new engineered floor in the same direction, you must install a minimum 3/8” (10mm) approved underlayment over the top of the old floor for stabilization.

FOR GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATIONS OVER OTHER MATERIALS:

Wood structural panel subfloors & underlayments:

Note:  Panels with sealants must be installed with sealed-side facing down.  When using panels as a subfloor, leave a 1/8” (3mm) expansion gap between all panel edges.  This will reduce the rise of squeaking.  If spacing is inadequate, re-cut gaps using a cir-cular saw.  DO NOT cut gaps when using tongue & groove panels.  Any one of the follow is acceptable:  (Note: Plywood is the subfloor material of choice and should be considered over other options).

Plywood, Oriented Strand Board (OSB), or Wafer Board & Chipboard:  must be minimum CDX grade (exposure 1) and meet US Voluntary Product Standard PS1 – 95 or Canadian Performance Standard CAN/CSA 0325-0-9.

Subfloor recommendation is ¾” (19mm).

Underlayment recommendation 3/8”(10mm).

Particleboard – must be 40Ib density and stamped as underlayment grade.  DO NOT use for subfloor.  Use as underlayment only.  ¾” (19mm) recommended.

Ceramic/porcelain tile, granite, marble, terrazzo and slate:  Repair all open grout joints and broken corners larger than 3/16” (4mm) in size with a cementitious leveling compound, underlayment and embossing leveler.  Use as per manufacturer’s recom-mendations.  Clean and abrade surface to ensure a good bonding surface.  Loose tiles must be re-adhered to the subfloor, or re-moved and filled in as per the above.  All surfaces should be clean, free of wax, sealants, oil and/or other contaminants.  Always test the adhesive bond before beginning installation.

Vinyl, resilient tile, Linoleum or cork flooring:  Ensure that the existing floor is not more than two (2) layers thick and does not exceed 3/16” (5mm) thickness.  If vinyl or tiles are loose, broken or in deteriorating condition, over with a minimum 3/8” (10mm) approved underlayment for stabilization.  Ensure floor is free of wax, grease, oils, sealants and other coatings or con-taminants that may impede the bond of the adhesive of your new floor.  You may clean using a commercial grade stripper and flooring pad.  Rise thoroughly and allow to completely dry.  DO NOT SAND any resilient flooring products, as they may contain asbestos fibres which are harmful and may cause serious health problems.  Always test the adhesive bond before beginning in-stallation.

Acoustic Cork underlayment:  Engineered hardwood flooring may be glued directly over full-spread, permanently bonded acous-tic cork. Cork must be in good condition with a density of not less than 11.4 Ibs/cubic foot (180 Kg/cubic M).  Cork should be granulated and pure, bonded together with a polyurethane or binder resin.  Install cord as per manufacturer’s recommendations.  Always test the adhesive bond before beginning installation.

Masonite:  Masonite used as an underlayment must be tempered.

Solid wood subfloors:  Any of the following are acceptable:

a)minimum ¾”(19mm) thick with a maximum width of 6” (15cm) installed at a 45 degree angle to the floor joists.
b)Group 1 sense softwood (pine, spruce, larch, fir, etc) or No. 2 common grade kiln-dried.  All board ends must join and meet a joist.
c)The above floors must be covered with a minimum 3/8” (10mm) approved underlayment to level the subfloor.

Select the longest boards for the first two rows to ensure a straight and true installation.

Align the grooved edge of the first row of boards along the chalk line, ensuring there is ¼” (6mm) gap between the board and the wall.  If the wall is not straight and there are gaps too wide to be covered by the baseboard, you will have to trim the first row as necessary so that the board follow the contour of the wall, maintaining a constant ¼” (6mm) gap.

Ensure the first row is well seated in the adhesive by applying sufficient down pressure along all portions of the board.  Remove a board to confirm full adhesive transfer is occurring.  Repeat this at least once per row throughout the entire floor.  Full adhesive transfer is essential for the floor to be properly bonded to the subfloor.

To correctly install each subsequent board, insert the tongue of the board into the next row, keeping the end of the board as close as possible to the previously installed board.  Do not slide the board into place across the adhesive, as this will cause excessive adhesive to collect between the boards resulting in “bleed-through”.  Never strike a board directly with a hammer or other object.  #.

Note: Should “bleed-through” occur, immediately remove the excessive adhesive using an adhesive cleaner as recommended by the manufacturer.  Use clean/soft rags and/or paper towels, replacing them often.  Ensure excess adhesive is fully removed with no “hazy” appearance after clean-up.

Note:  Should the adhesive start to dry and “skin-over”, the boards may not bond properly, so remove it and re-apply fresh adhe-sive.

To fully snug-up rows for proper and tight fitting joints, use a “tapping block”.  Hold the tapping block at a low angle of ap-proximately 15o to avoid edge damage. 

After each row is installed, verify all end joints are tight and well matched, as well as the side joints.  Immediately remove and replace any boards not fitting correctly, as future removal/replacement is extremely difficult.

Layout first row of boards, selecting longer lengths, the tongue should be facing the wall.  “Lock” the ends of the boards together by holding the right board at a 25 degree angle. A perfect end join must be achieved to continue .  First board should start ¼” (6mm) from the wall.  Cut the last board to finish ¼” (6mm) from opposite wall.

We recommend you use temporary ¼” (6mm) shims to keep the floor away from the walls, as the floor will shift during installa-tion due to it being a floating floor.  Place the shims every 2-3” (60-90cm) along the starting wall, plus at the end of each of the starting rows so boards do not shift when clicked into place.

Option :   You can begin the first row away from the wall , complete 3-4 rows , then slide the floor back to the wall . This avoids problems from a crooked wall .

Using the last cut piece from the first row, start the 2nd row.  Use Medium to longer length boards and install the 2nd row com-pletely.  For this row, joints of boards should not be closer than 12” (30cm) to optimize straightness.

Install rows 3, 4 & 5 completely as per step #.  Inspect the floor and verify the floor is perfectly straight and that all sides and ends of boards are fully clicked together and fully closed.  Lift and reinstall any areas where boards are not fully clicked and locked together.  Also verify you are satisfied with each board’s appearance, condition and quality.  End joints that are not per-fect cannot be hammered into place ,  instead they must be dis-connected , and re-joined at an angle .

For a pleasing appearance and straight and true floor, ensure the ends of boards are  a minimum of 4’ – 6’ (100 – 150mm) apart.

Complete the remaining floor area as per the previous steps.

If boards are not making adequate floor contact, you can flatten” the boards with weights to ensure full adhesive transfer.  Place the weights on a protective layer of cardboard to avoid damage to the floor.  Any boards that do not appear to flatten should be discarded for another board.  Leave weights for 24 hours.

Should the installation require 2 or more sessions/days, please take the following precautions:

Apply adhesive to only the area to be covered by the last row.  Use a chalk line to mark the edge of the board and adhesive area.

Ensure that the last board is COMPLETELY in contact with the adhesive.

Remove all excess adhesive on the slab or subfloor using a flat rowel or scraper.

Discard this adhesive.

Ensure the adhesive container is fully sealed until the next use.

Clean all tools thoroughly.

Upon finishing the installation, inspect the floor carefully for any adhesive marks, bleed-through, smears or haze and thoroughly clean all areas from the floor surface with a damp cloth.

Restrict access to the area and avoid heavy traffic for 24 hours.  Do not place furniture or other heavy objects on the floor for 24 hours.  When furniture is placed, DO NOT slide it across the floor.  Lift it into place.  All furniture must have protective felts on the legs and areas in contact with the floor.

FINISHING THE INSTALLATION:

General cleaning:  Vacuum and clean the floor surface using the cleaning products recommended by the adhesive manufacturer.  Refer to label for information and precautions.

Baseboards and quarter rounds:  Replace or install new matching baseboard and quarter rounds in all areas.  If baseboards and quarter rounds require finishing, it is best to pre-finish them in a separate area to avoid spilling on your new hardwood floor.  Baseboards should be nailed into the wall and quarter rounds into the baseboards.  DO NOT nail either of these into the engi-neered hardwood flooring!

Transition pieces:  If you have removed any transition pieces and not covered their place with hardwood, reinstall them immedi-ately (including reducer strips, T-molding and thresholds).  Quality Woodscape Noureau mouldings are available from your local Woodscape Noureau dealer for all Woodscape Noureau flooring products.

Transition pieces include:

Reducer:  This is a wedge shaped piece of wood used to make the height transition between two different floor heights.  Use in front of doorways, fireplaces, room dividers, different types of flooring, ceramic or stone tile or carpeting.  Cut and finish to nec-essary width.  If required, fasten with adhesive, two-sided tape or pre-drill and nail directly to subfloor.

Stair Bull-nose:  This is a strip of wood with a lip that forms over the edge of the stair step.  For safety reasons, bull-nosing should be fastened with both adhesive and nails, pre-drill and nail into place to secure.  Fit planks into place to complete stair treads, nailing them (through tongue piece) in place individually.  Cut last row to fit, pre-drill and nail into place.

T-moulding:  This is a wood strip used to provide additional expansion space between different flooring areas.  Leave some space on each side of the strip, pre-drill and nail directly to subfloor.

General maintenance of your Woodscape Nouveau engineered hardwood floor:

Regular vacumming and periodic cleaning of your engineered hardwood floor will ensure its beauty and lasting finish.  More fre-quent attention is recommended in high traffic areas, as well as near exterior and garage entrances.  Hardwood cleaning products are available at most hardware and hardwood retailers.  Use as per manufacturer’s recommendations.

Regularly clean with a dampened rag and a  little dishwashing soap.  The rag should never leave water drops on the floor. 
Alternately, s Swiffer type floor cleaning wand will work provided you do not use excessive liquid cleaner.

Use small indoor area rugs at all interior entrances, as well as door mats at exterior entrances.  This will remove loose dirt and debris from shoes.  Clean rugs and mats on a regular basis.  DO NOT leave on hardwood floor permanently.  For non-slip area rugs, consult a reputable floor covering vendor, as some materials can be damaging to hardwood surfaces.

Never use water or wet mops to clean hardwood floors.  Do not use polishing products which require the use of water.  Use of these products could void your warranty.  Water from shoes, clothing, pets, etc.  should be wiped up immediately with a soft cloth or paper towel.

DO NOT USE abrasive products, bathroom cleaning products, ammonia based products, was based polishes/cleaners, acrylic fin-ishes, acidic or vinegar based solutions, oil soaps, detergents, chlorine based products, bleach, solvents or any type or polishes.  The use of these products may permanently damage the finish of your floor and may void the warranty.

Toilet training accidents from children and pets must be immediately cleaned up due to the risk of discoloration properties of urine.  Do not toilet train pets or keep litter boxes near hardwood floors.

Keep your pet’s nails trimmed, especially larger dogs, as their nails may scratch the floor.

Clean spills immediately to prevent them from running between the cracks and staining the floor.  Small spills should be cleaned up with a lightly dampened cloth and a small amount of dishwashing soap (which will not leave water drops on the surface).

Do not roll or slide furniture or appliances with castors across the floor.  Most castors will damage the floor’s finish.  Carefully and safely lift and move the object into place.  To minimize possible wear and damage, barrel type castors are recommended un-der furniture sitting on hardwood floors.

Do not wear high heels and hard-soled types of shoes, as they can cause denting to hardwood floors.  Damage resulting from any footwear is specifically excluded from this warranty.

Light and sunlight will naturally darken your hardwood with age, bringing additional warmth to its natural colour.  You should, however, periodically move area rugs and other objects to avoid permanent colour differences across your floor.  Note:  the dark-ening or change of colour is not considered a defect and is not covered under the product warranty.  Futhermore, any boards hav-ing lighter toned areas during the time of installation (from being under the plastic straps and/or labeling, will darken to the same tone as the remainder of the floor within a few weeks of exposure to natural light.

Minor damage and wear can be repaired using a “hardwood touch-up and repair kit” available from your local hardware or hard-wood suppliers.  Follow manufacturer’s instructions.

Save all leftover boards for unforeseen needs or board replacement in the event of damage.

IMPORTANT FACT:

Humidity should be kept between 35% and 55% throughout the year.  Balanced and consistently maintained humidity will ensure your floor looks and performs at its best.  Use a humidifier, dehumidifier and/or air conditioner as necessary to maintain a steady humidity level.  Note that electric baseboard and hot water radiator type heating systems promote especially low humidity levels.

Seasonal humidity changes constantly throughout your home.  An increase in humidity may cause your floor to expand slightly; which is why it is important to leave a ¼” gap around the floor perimeter.  During the dry season, your floor may contract.  Under normal conditions, your baseboards and/or quarter rounds will cover the contraction.

In all cases, expansion and contraction are normal.  They are natural and seasonal aspects of hardwood flooring and are not con-sidered a defect under the product’s warranty.

CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR WOODSCAPE NOUVEAU ENGINEERED HARDWOOD FLOORING PROJECT!
We wish you many years of enjoyment with our product and offer our most sincere thanks for choosing Woodscape Noureau products.